Marty Schmidt — 10th dispatch from Gasherbrum, Pakistan — есть вершина

Hello Macpac, hello everyone following Tim, Giannina and I in the wonderful Karakoram mountains.

I don’t have much time, today is the 22nd of July… On the 18th went for… well actually the 16th, 17th and 18th went from Camp 3 to Camp 4 and then summited on the 18th of July. Tim and I attempted it in the morning. It was very cold and the base was off a little bit to make that long climb, it’s a very hard mountain to climb (…) and… we made it to roughly to about 7,650m and it looked like we didn’t have enough time to go ahead and make the summit, so we got down safely to Camp 4.

Tim went ahead and stayed put at Camp 4 and I turned around and was able to go up very quickly from 11 o’clock in the morning to a summit in 4 hours at 3 and I came down in Camp 4 at 5 o’clock. It took 2 hours to get down. So with my speed I could do it, but for Tim, he needed a little bit more strength, a little bit more time but that’s great that’s what he’s up here for (…) to get it all in his blood, in his bones, in his body.

We’re down at base and Giannina and Tim are heading back down to Skardu and I’m taking the opportunity to go up and do a fast ascent of G1. So I will communicate again after G1 which will be in about 4 or 5 days from now. Communication is not the best I know with the sat phone and I’m sorry about that. I’ll try to get out another email if I can. If not, I call again in about 3, 4, 5 days when I know more about the G1 expedition.

OK, all the best from Pakistan… I hope New Zealand is doing well with the snow and thinking of you guys. We’ll be in touch.
Bye from the Karakorams.

И опять заповедник…

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Марти Шмидт из передает из Пакистана

Hello Macpac, hello New Zealand, the States, Europe… pretty much all over the world.
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Некоторые материалы по нашему маршруту по Ю-З стене Макалу (обновлено — для свободного распространения).

Нитка маршрута с указанием высотных лагерей / Route topo with our high camps marked

Нитка маршрута с указанием высотных лагерей / Route topo with our high camps marked


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Колин Скотт передаёт привет

Колин Скотт, Юра Круглов

Колин Скотт, Юра Круглов

Руководитель Британской военной экпедиции «Макалу 2010», командир эскадрона RAF Колин Скотт передаёт через меня привет — уже второй четверг мы пьём хорошее пиво в хорошем пабе и вспоминаем как мы делали то же самое в непальском «пабе» у двух непальских сестёр, на нейтральной территории между нашими базовыми лагерями под Макалу. Сегодня Колин подарил мне отчёт об их экспедиции, сделанный в виде журнала. По качеству исполнения он не хуже любого альпинистского журнала. Хорошие новости — в 2012 году они снова собираются на Макалу.

Новости от Марти из Пакистана

Dispatch 5

Hello everyone following Tim and Marty and Giannina up here in Pakistan.

At G1 Base camp, we arrived a couple of days ago and established it, it’s a beautiful site and everything is up and running and feeling comfortable, good food and everything is clicking. Just had a Puja with some of the Sherpas today and several teams are going up to Camp 1 tomorrow. We’re going to be on the mountain for about 3 days and letting you know that we’re going through the glacier and the icefall and get up to Camp 1… and maybe even push up to Camp 2 just to see what it’s like up there, and then get down to Camp 1 and sleep at least a couple of nights at Camp 1 and then get down to Base Camp before it storms on the 1 July. So that’s our game plan…
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