Некоторые материалы по нашему маршруту по Ю-З стене Макалу (обновлено — для свободного распространения).
Ukrainian National expedition “Ukraine – Makalu 2010” in brief
Duration: 07/04/2010 (arrival to BC) — 23/05/2010 (summit)
Expedition budget: 200000 USD
Route: new line on the SW face joining the W pillar
Valentin Simonenko — expedition leader
Mstislav Gorbenko – expedition leader in Nepal
Mikhail Zagirnjak — assistant coach
Igor Bondar — expedition doctor
Yuri Kruglov — team leader
Yurij Kilichenko – video operator
Oxygen: no use of bottled oxygen
High altitude porters: no use high altitude porters
Route description and teamwork
The route can be logically divided into three parts.
1st part — BC (4850) to Camp 2 (6600) — via Slovenian route on S face (Kunaver, 1975)
2nd part — Camp2 (6600) to Camp 4 (7500) — the new line on the SW face. The line goes diagonally up-left via SW face towards the W pillar.
3rd part — Camp 4 (7500) — Summit (8463) — via French route on Western Pillar (Paragot, 1971)
The team was divided into three groups working on the route in 5-7 day shifts. While one group was pushing the upper end of the fixed ropes further, the other two groups were involved in load carrying to high camps. Each group had 2-3 days of rest in the BC after each working shift on the face.
Ropes were fixed all the way up to 7800m. The bottom line of the fixed ropes was at 6000 — in the beginning of the steep ice slopes between ABC and Camp 1. Total length of the fixed ropes used — 3000 m.
Main dates of the climb:
07/04 — Base Camp(4850) at Hillary Base Camp was established
09/04 — ABC (5850) was established
12/04 — Camp 1 (6200) was established
1/04 — Camp 2 (6600) was established
21/04 — Camp 3 (7000) was established
30/04 — Camp 4 (7500) was established
01/05 — our route joined with Western Pillar at 7600
02/05 — 13/05 — no activity above Base Camp due to bad weather (very high winds at altitude 7000 and higher)
17/05 — Camp 5 (7750) was established
23/05 — Summit
The main technical challenge of the route was the slabby second part of the face from 6200 to 7600 to the left or Slovenian route. This part has never been climbed before. Rock above 6600 is polished, protection is generally bad. There are no ledges suitable for camping except the tiny ledge used for Camp 3. However, no bolts were used except one at Camp 3. The average grade of the second part of the route is 4-5 (UIAA) with one pitch A1-A2.
The crux pitch after joining the Wester pillar was at well known A1-A2 30m rock wall at 7700.
Main difficulty experienced by the expedition was the forced 11 days gap in our activity due to high winds on the face (up to 140 km/h). The team had to re-establish almost all high camps. 1 tent was blown out in ABC. Camp 1 tent was partially destroed. Camp3 tent — partially destroyed. Camp 4 tent was completely destroyed. The replacement tent was also destroed after just two days and replaced with the third tent.
SummitingThere were 3 summit attempts (one by each group). Only one group got into the only weather window and managed to get to the summit on 23/04/2010. Descent via normal route was choosen. Names of the summitters: Sergey Bublik, Dmitry Venslavovsky, Vladimir Roshko.
Да, жизнь на гране, Высоцкий часто в голове звучит?
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